The Internet Travel Guide "Getting to Know Cuba"

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Sightseeing, Route 2: In the belly of the crocodile

As far as the eye can see, there are vast fields of pineapples and orange trees, rice plants, and especially sugar cane. Between these fields, cattle graze on huge grasslands. The region between Havana and Cienfuegos in the province of Matanzas seems to be a single infinite plantation and is the center of the Cuban sugar cane industry. During harvest period from November until May there are mancheteros on both sides of the road working very hard amidst high plants of sugar cane. The Zapata peninsula, however, seems to be deserted. In contrast to former times, there are hardly any crocodiles left there today, but there still exist various species of fish and birds. Cienfuegos, the capital of the province, is further southeast and has a rather French atmosphere.

>> Havana
>> Guamá
>> Playa Larga
>> Bay of Pigs
>> Cienfuegos
>> Varadero
>> Matanzas
>> Cardenas
>> Hotels, restaurants, shopping

Havana
The sight of Havana from its port seemed to the German naturalist Alexander von Humboldt to be the most cheerful and picturesque coast of America north of the equator. He wrote in his essay about Cuba that the charm of the landscape seemed to be similar to the European landscapes but mingled with an organic power that is typical for the torrid zones.

Old house in Havana

The Cuban writer Alejo Carpentier describes Havana as a city that has created a "style devoid of style" which distinguishes Cuba's capital from all other cities of the American continent. A strange homogeneity in Havana's cityscape is considered unique. For Alejo Carpentier, Havana was a jungle of columns, an endless colonnade, where a pedestrian can wander from the fortification at the port to the outlying districts, through the whole city center, over the cobblestone streets Monte or Reina and will always stay under the same yet constantly changing colonnade.
Originally, there was a swamp where today Havana's most beautiful square is situated. After the swamp had been drained, the first water supply facilities of the
new world, the Chorro aqueduct, was built. However, until the 18th century this square at the edge of the settlement and its surroundings were rather disreputable. This did not change until the Jesuits built a small missionary church on the square in 1704. The side aisles and the baroque façade were added later. In 1767, the Jesuits were expelled from Cuba and the cathedral was completed under the sovereignty of the Spanish king. Then, finally in 1789, the main church of Havana moved from the Plaza de Armas into the cathedral.

From 1796 to 1898, the remains of Christopher Columbus rested in the nave of the cathedral. At the end of the Spanish in Cuba, the remains were moved to Seville (Spain), where, however, they did not remain. The explorer traveled even more after his death than during his lifetime).

On some market days, you have to force your way through the milling crowd on the square, past the booths of the street vendors to reach the long arcade on the right side of the cathedral. It belongs to the palace that was built in 1740 by the Dukes of Lombillo. At the beginning of the 20th century, the post office was set up there - a mailbox shaped like a Greek theater mask that is set into the wall serves as a reminder. The palace of the Dukes of Arcos, that was built at the same time, adjoins directly to the Palace of Lombillo. Today, there is a lithography workshop on its ground floor called Taller Experimental Gráfica de La Habana.

Opposite the cathedral rises the Palace of the Earl of Bayona where once the Havana Club rum distillery had its headquarters. The Palace was built in 1720 on behalf of the military governor Luís Chacón and is one of the oldest buildings of the square. Meanwhile, the Museo de Arte Colonial shows here in seven rooms, items reflecting the Creole way of life - precious furniture, mirrors and china. One hall is dedicated to the extraordinary Cuban architecture: details of the colonial style are exhibited, just like the writer Alejo Carpentier described them in his essay about Havana: artistically forged latticework, colorful windows and the medium-high swinging doors which you can find in every colonial house. Due to the swinging doors, the desired afternoon breeze could easily blow through every room of the house, yet ensuring the intimacy of a "separate room." The corner house on the left side of the Colonial Museum was the former public bathhouse called Casa de Baños. In the 16th century there was a cistern where the bathhouse was built in the 19th century. The neo-baroque façade was added in 1931 only. Today, it houses an art gallery and a handicraft shop. At the beginning of the 20th century, the tables of the famous restaurant "Paris" were standing in the former Palace of the Earl of Auguas Claras, where later the industrial bank put up its counters in the enormous halls. In 1963, the El Patio restaurant opened. A son ensemble plays often on its roofed terrace and you only need to stay alone at the tables if you insist on it. Apart from the main features, you will also be offered cigars and rum.

Only a few steps away from the cathedral the Calle Empedarado branches off - it is called that because it was one of the first streets of Havana paved with cobblestones. On this street you can find the most legendary club of Cuba: La Bodeguita del Medio. Originally, the workers from the nearby printeries ate their lunch at the Bodeguita, but soon the club also attracted poets and intellectuals. Today, it is mostly tourists that crowd in the famous club. Ernest Hemingway was a cocktail expert and the Mojíto from the Bodeguita was his favorite drink (but he also lked the daiquiris at the Floridita bar.

 

Guamá
The entire peninsula of Zapata is an impassable swamp crisscrossed by channels where, in former times, only some charcoal burners and crocodile hunters lived. Approximately 10 miles south of the highway, lies the entrance of Guamá, a tourist attraction consisting of a crocodile farm and a treasure lagoon (Laguna del Tesoro) which was created in the first years after the revolution.

About 40,000 crocodiles live on the crocodile farm in enclosed swampy lakes. On a tour, (Do not forget your mosquito repellant!) you can watch the animals at close range through the fence. It is said that all animals have been caught in the infinite channels of the swampy peninsula; some crocodile hunters show how to catch such an alligator with a lasso and how to tie up its mouth. The farm's restaurant offers crocodile meat as a specialty. The Cuban tourist guides ensure that the first priority is to protect the animals from extinction and only a small controlled percentage of them are processed into handbags and shoes.

If there is sufficient gas, small excursion boats drive from the landing stage next to the crocodile farm through the channels to the treasure lagoon (Some boats do not have any sunroofs; so do not forget a hat and suntan lotion!). According to the tradition, the Indians sunk their possessions in the lake to hide them from the gold-greedy Spanish. In particular, the sports fishing turns Guamá into a tourist attraction. Special fishing tours are organized and several fishing competitions take place every year. Furthermore, canoes and motorboats can be rented.

Seven artificial islands connected through small landing stages and bridges rise on stakes in the treasure lake. The thatched bungalows made of wood are imitations of pre-Columbian cabins of the Indians. An entire Taíno village was re-constructed on the main island. The Cuban sculptress Rita Longa modeled sculptures that portray the Indians in their everyday life.

The Hotel Guamá, with its 44 bungalows, used to be Cuba's most popular honeymoon hotel. Today it urgently needs to be renovated. Each of the bungalows built on stakes is air-conditioned but this does not deter the mosquitoes.

 

Playa Larga
Situated at the innermost point of the Bay of Pigs, this unpretentious sea resort offers a nice beach, a hotel and a diving school. It is the starting point for many excursions into the uninhabited western part of the Zapata swamps. These expeditions, however, are very expensive and require a guide employed by the Hotel Playa Larga. The best time to enjoy the diversity of species living in the swamps is between January and April, when you will find many migrant birds and few mosquitoes here.

 

Bay of Pigs (Bahia de los Cochinos)
The Bay of Pigs is situated fifteen kilometers south of La Boca and was the setting of one of the most famous episodes of the Cold War, namely the attempted invasion by Americans and Cuban exiles. Eighty small monuments along the road to Playa Larga serve as a reminder of the bloody battle in 1961 and huge color billboards set up in the landscape show Castro with his Kalaschnikow, keeping alive the memory of this successful event in Cuban history.

On 17 April 1961, 1500 Cuban exiles trained by the CIA landed on the southern shore of Cuba, brought in by the US marines. Within 48 hours, the invasion was defeated and 1180 men were captured and later exchanged for food and medical supplies worth 53 million dollars.

Before the invasion started, US bombers manned by Cubans had tried in vain to eliminate the Cuban air force, which had flown air raids against the US Navy. Cuban emigrants expected even more support from the USA, which President Kennedy however refused because he feared the criticism of the global community and was afraid of how the Soviets might react.

Castro played an important role in this conflict. After this first major defeat of the Imperialism in Latin America, as he called it, his popularity rose even more. However, he expected the USA to make further attempts to invade Cuba. Released tapes from the White House prove indeed that some political counselors advised Kennedy to start a war.

Cienfuegos
In the brochures, Cienfuegos is called the "pearl of the south." The location of the city is truly spectacular, spread over narrow peninsulas that reach out into a broad and crystal clear bay. There are some marvelous buildings dating from the late 19th and early 20th century when Cienfuegos was still one of the richest centers of sugar production in Cuba. As there is a high concentration of industry in the port, the water quality of the bay is one of the worst of the island.

Examples of truly impressive architecture can be found in the area around the large, palm-tree covered Jose Marti park. They include a music pavilion and a triumphal arch that was built on the occasion of the founding of the republic. At the north side of the park lies the Teatro Tomas Terry, probably the most enchanting of Cuba's theaters of the colonial period. It was built in 1890 and named after a rich owner of sugarcane plantations.

The nearby cathedral, built in the 19th century (open 7-12 am), has beautiful glass windows and a gilded interior. Avenida 54 east of the Parque Jose Marti is a pedestrian zone and the main shopping street of Cienfuegos. There are few interesting things to buy but the street offers a good picture of Cuba's economic situation, with pawnshops, empty department stores, malls and well equipped dollar stores.

 

Varadero
On the Hicacos peninsula lies Varadero, the most beautiful, and with 20 kilometres, the longest of the Cuban beaches. With its white sand and emerald green water that is almost always warm enough for a swim, Varadero resembles a beach out of paradise. Although it is one of the biggest tourist sites in Cuba, it is still possible to find solitary beach sections. About 10,000 Cubans live in Varadero and approximately ten times as many tourists come to visit every year.

Traditional house in Varadero

Ever since Varadero was turned into a booming tourist centre with an international airport and a growing number of luxury hotels, it has de facto become impossible for Cubans to spend their holidays there as well. In the past, the tourists on the beach attracted numerous hawkers, beggars and prostitutes but now there are strict controls with the result that tourists are isolated from the local vacationers.

It is easy to find one's way on the Hicacos peninsula. The main street Avenida Primera leads to the Hotel Internacional, crossing Varadero right in the middle, while the Autopista Sur runs parallel along the Southern coast leading almost up to the tip of the peninsula. As a rule of thumb, the better hotels can be found on the part of the beach that is north of the Avenida Primera, while the less renowned are located south of it. There are countless restaurants, bars, clubs and shops in Varadero. The beach is lined with cafés, palm-roofed bars and barbecue restaurants, which offer shrimp, lobster and other delicacies.

At night, there is also plenty of action in Varadero. Beside the many hotel shows and discos, you can have a great time in countless cabarets, nightclubs or even a former pirate cave (Cueva del Pirata), which has been turned into a dance hall. At the annual street carnival, revelers can get carried away by the festive parade.

Matanzas
Matanzas, the capital of the province, lies 30 kilometres west of Varadero. In the 19th century, it was the centre of Cuban poets and philosophers, a reputation Matanzas is still very proud to have. The city has the deepest harbour of Cuba and once was the most important trading place for the export of pork and beef to Spain. It probably owes its name to this fact (matanza means slaughtering).

The theatres show interesting productions. We recommended the Teatro Sauto (Plaza de la Víga, performances at weekends, open to visitors Tue - Fri 9am - 4pm, Sat 9am - 12am, Sun 2pm - 5pm). Particularly worth seeing are the magnificent buildings from the sugar boom era or the Museo Farmaceútico (Calle 83 No.4951, Mon - Sat 10am - 5pm, Sun 10am - 2pm), a pharmacy that was established more than one hundred years ago.

Cárdenas
Although only 18 km south of Varadero, Cárdenas has not benefited from the economic growth in the other town. The impoverished town, which was an important port in the 19th century, is an excellent example of traditional Cuba. Today, the importance of the port town has vanished since the water was not deep enough for bigger ships, but the run-down classicist buildings are reminiscent of its former glory. There are still few motorised vehicles in Cárdenas, instead, the streets are crowded with bicycles and carriages moving past old-fashioned barber shops and radio stores. Thanks to the efforts of Padre Raimundo García Francos and the US embargo, Cárdenas has become an ecological showplace and attracts visitors from all over the world. The town gets its power from solar energy and biogas, and horse-driven carriages and oxteams serve as public transport with fixed routes. The Museo Oscar María de Rojas is one of the oldest museums of the country and displays an unusual collection, which ranges from insects to coins to Indian art (Avenida 4/Calle 12, open Tues-Sat, 8am-4pm; Sun, 8am-12 noon).

Hotels
Meliá Las Américas
Playa de las Américas, tel. 05-667600, fax 667625, double rooms starting at $150. Top hotel with golf site, situated just 5 kilometers from the Varadero city center.

Cuatro Palmas
Avenida Primera between Calle 61 and 62, tel. 05-667040, fax 667208, double rooms starting at $120. Low-roofed bungalows among trees and flower beds next to the sea.

Hotel Varadero Internacional
Carretera Las Américas, tel. 05-667038, fax 667246, double rooms starting at $105. Prim and proper charm of the 1950s with a good surfing and sailing school attached.

Hotel Pullman
Avenida 1ra, Calle 49, tel. 05-667161, fax 667495, double rooms starting at $ 45. Comfortable 15-room hotel located in an old villa with friendly service; about 150 m to the beach.

 

 

Restaurants
Las Américas
Playa de las Américas, tel. 05-667750. The building was formerly the summer residence of the chemist and millionaire DuPont, now it is a museum of pre-revolutionary pomp. International cuisine.

El Aljibe
Avenida Primera, between Calle 36 and 37, tel. 05-614019. Creole cuisine served outdoors, $12 for a multi-course meal.

El Bodegón Criollo
Avenida de la Playa, between Calle 40 and 41, tel. 05-667784. Fresh Cuban lobster for $25.

La Casa de Antigüedades
Avenida 1ra, Calle 59, tel. 05-667329. Exquisite seafood by candlelight.

Evening Events
Parque Josone
between Avenida Primera and Calle 58. Beautiful park with Afro-Cuban show on an open-air stage followed by disco music.

Cabaret Continental
in the Hotel Varadero Internacional, Carretera Las Américas, tel. 05-667038, admission $25 or $40 including dinner. Less spectacular, but at the same time more traditional than the Tropicana show in Havanna.

La Bamba
In the "Hotel Tuxpán", Avenida Las Américas, tel. 05-667560, admission $10. This is regarded as one of the best clubs in Cuba where you can party until dawn.