Sightseeing, Route 4: The Wild East
It is not only the rough mountainous scenery of the Sierra
with its untamed nature that is considered to be wild in the eastern part
of Cuba which is called Oriente by Cubans.
The people living there are known to be extremely rebellious as well.
There is no other region where so many battles and rebellions have taken
place. Driving along the coast is fascinating: green hills, turquoise
sea and majestic royal palms everywhere. In this wild area one will often
encounter mules. There are only few villages. Only when you come to Manzanillo,
the birthplace of Cuban son, do you return to civilization. The distances
may seem short but driving along serpentines and bumpy roads will take
a while. A 100 km trip takes three hours.
>> Sierra
Maestra
>> Manzanillo
>> Bayamo
>> Santiago
de Cuba
>> Guantanamo
>> Hotels,
restaurants, shopping
Sierra Maestra
Cuba's largest and highest chain of mountains spreads from the southwestern
part of Oriente 240 km eastwards to Santiago. The hardy mountain folk
live in simple, thatched huts. There are concrete grounds where they
dry coffee beans. Except for some coastal areas, tourism has not yet
found its way to this region. Only by taking part in a guided tour it
is possible to experience the Sierra Maestra without a car.
Manzanillo
The most important landing of Granma province is surprising and disappointing
at the same time. The main square with its great buildings, inspired
by Moorish architecture, is one of the most exceptional sights of Cuba.
The shore is characterized by industry and it is only worth visiting
on a clear evening to enjoy the sunset.
Edificio Quirch
La Glorieta is the core of the Parque Cespedes. The pavilion, built
in 1924, looks marvelous with its Arabic inscriptions, marble pillars
and colorful bricks. Peculiar sphinx statues, fancy fountains and artful
iron lamps are additional attractions of the park, as well as the Edificio
Quirch with its key-hole shaped windows and the tower on the North side.
Visit the Casa de la Cultura on the West side where there are art exhibitions
and two huge tiled walls showing the landing of Columbus in Cuba.
Bayamo
Bayamo, which was founded in 1513, is Cuba's second oldest town. It
is famous for its glorious role in Cuba's war of independence during
the 19th century. On October 20th 1868, it was the first town to be
invaded by the troups of rebels under Carlos Manuel de Cespedes. Several
months later, its citizens set it on fire before it was reinvaded by
the Spanish war forces. Almost every building has its own memorial tablet
honoring the heroes of the revolution.
Plaza de la Revolucion
This beautiful square at the center of Bayamo attracts old men as well
as families who enjoy resting on the marble benches under large shady
trees. Significant historical events of Bayamo's war of independence
are chiselled in stone on the square, and one can also admire the statue
of Figueredo, local hero and composer of the national anthem, La Bayamesa.
Plaza del Hymno
The Plaza del Hymno, situated near the Plaza de la Revolucion, stands
next to the church, in which the Cuban anthem was sung for the first
time in 1868. Although the church burned out in a blast in 1869, it
is worth visiting because of its beautiful paintings in the main nave.
Santiago de
Cuba
The Parque Céspedes, center of Santiago, has been one of the
city's most famous meeting points for 500 years. A colossal yellow cathedral
seems to guard over the lively square.
Since 1516, the first church of Parque Céspedes was rebuilt as
often and perseveringly as it was destroyed by earthquakes and fires.
It was rebuilt for the last time in 1922, whereas the foundation dates
back to 1810. Above the square, as a kind of second floor, the main
portal opens to a huge patio. Leaning against the balustrade is a perfect
viewpoint for the hustle and bustle all over the square.
The city hall where Fidel Castro announced the revolution on January
1, 1959, is situated across from the cathedral. The present building
is an imitation of the old city hall, which was destroyed by an earthqake
in the 1940s.
The Casa Diego Velázquez, Cuba's oldest building, can be found
to the left of the city hall. It was built as a residence for the first
governor of the island in 1516 and today harbors a museum for colonial
art. Its exhibitions include precious chattels made of exotic Cuban
woods as well as expensive dishes and glasses. The gold melting furnace
is an interesting witness of history, where part of the stolen hoard
of Aztec gold was melted before being taken to Spain.
When you face the cathedral, the beautiful and recently renovated colonial
hotel Casa Granda lies to your right. The Calle Heredia, which passes
the Casa Granda on the right and leads on to the Parque Céspedes,
is certainly worth a stroll. People who come for a chat or just to rest
from their daily labors sit on benches in the shade. This is also the
area where the Casa de la Trova is located, a place where Santiagueros
have been meeting for decades to celebrate their passion; music.
Sones, boleros, and guarachas are not only sung but experienced. The
walls of the Casa de la Trova are decorated with portraits of the legendary
troubadores Miguel Matamoros, Manuel Corona, Sindo Garay. Also on Calle
Heredia you will find the Carnival Museum, the ARTEX-Patio and the birthplace
of the Poet José Maria Heredia (1803-1839), the man who gave
Santiago's "street of culture" its name.
Cubans call Santiago tierra caliente, the hot spot, and sometimes it
is also said to be Cuba's unofficial capital. The island's second largest
city is its most African one. The people here look more African, too.
In Santiago, the asphalt glows and in the city center, bars line the
streets. Salsa, Son and Rumba boom from windows and doors. This is the
capital of music and dance, the capital of nightlife and flirtation.
In the Calle Heredia, a crowd besieges the Casa de la Trova. A US $1
admission charge is far too much for most Cubans, so their only chance
is to find a tourist who will pay for them. The air inside is hot and
steamy, and the hall is full to bursting. The focus of attention is
on three musicians, whose ages combined would far exceed 200 years.
Some of the dancers gliding over the towel-sized dance-floor in front
of the stage are no younger than the "boys" in the band. Of
course, they have the most beautiful and the youngest dance partners,
and anyone who sees them dance knows why. It is as if they had never
done anything else in their lives. And soon, you can't help but realize
that we non-Cubans will never learn to dance like that. Since Wim Wender's
film "Buena Vista Social Club," Cuban music has become hip.
The world is celebrating son, a style of music that appeared at the
beginning of the 19th century. Of course, its roots are in Santiago;
and if they were not, then they were surely in the Oriente, in the east
of Cuba. The son was called mulatto music, because it combined "black"
(African) rhythms and "white"(Spanish) guitar sounds and vocals,
thus becoming the music of the African Cubans and of the white population.
Most of the successful contemporary musicians have started their careers
in Santiago, and at one time or another, almost all of them played in
the Casa de la Trova.
The Casa de las Tradiciones is Santiago's musical hothouse. Although
outside Cuba, the Casa de la Trova is considered the cradle of Cuban
music, Santiago's music community does not share this opinion. "The
Casa de la Trova has become much more a tourist attraction than a meeting
point for the people from Santiago," says Rafael Fernández.
Once a certain type of music has made its debut in the Casa de la Trova,
it can be considered ready to become a world success, but very probably,
it has passed through the Casa de las Tradiciones before. "The
Casa de la Trova engages renowned artists for longer periods, whereas,
we in the Casa de las Tradiciones make engagements with different bands.
We want to give new musicians a chance." Rafael Fernández
knows exactly what he's talking about. With his Son Sonidos he's taken
the stage in the Casa de las Tradiciones more than once. No matter that
the club only offers Cuban music, it draws a much younger crowd that
is more willing to fill the considerably sized dance floor. "In
the Casa de la Trova, everybody politely stays seated, as in school.
Here everybody just stands wherever they like. But they usually don't
stand around, almost everyone dances." Fernández has to
interrupt our interview as the break is over and his presence on the
stage is required. He won't make it down again for a number of hours:
Fired on by the cheering audience, the event turns into a ecstatic jam
session. Since half of all Cubans appear to be musicians, there is a
large number of people willing to join in. After another very long night
the concert finally ends in the early hours.
There may turn out to be a surprise winner in the race which has the
venerable Casa de la Trova and the much younger Casa de las Tradiciones
competing for the best musicians. The Calle Heredia in Santiago harbours
another musical bar right next to the Casa de la Trova, the Casa de
los Estudiantes, which also puts on concerts on the weekends. And 'weekends'
in Santiago usually start on Thursdays. The fine old ball room of the
Casa de los Estudiantes with its pillars, colourfully tiled floor and
the patio emanate the splendor of olden times and allow for a large
dance floor. The fact that the admission fee is affordable for most
Cubans is a guarantee for finding the "hottest" dancers there.
The music selection is neither limited to Cuban bands nor to salsa music,
but reaches from African bongo sounds to Latin American rock music.
Guantánamo
It may come as a surprise, but the southwestern corner of Cuba still
harbors the last vestige of the Cold War. Near Guantánamo, the
US have their only naval base on hostile territory. For the soldiers,
it goes by the name of "Gitmo Bay" and is a 117 sq kilometer
large thorn in Fidel Castro's side. The government of the United States
plans to keep it for military and political reasons, although most outside
observers consider this to be an anachronistic, superfluous farce.
History
In 1901, the United States obliged Cuba to lease out to them the area
of land to both sides of the large natural harbor that forms Guantánamo
Bay for an unspecified period of time. Allegedly, this area was to be
used to monitor Cuba's newly established independence. At the beginning,
the United States paid a yearly lease of USD 2,000, which in 1934 was
increased to the extravagant sum of USD 4,085, and the lease was limited
to 99 years. Cuba was understandably disgruntled over this deal and
with Castro's move to power, things have gotten no easier. Castro rejects
the legitimacy of the Americans' presence on the island and has refused
to cash the checks for the symbolic lease payments.
Hotels
LTI Los Corales / Carisol hotels
in Baconao
phone/fax 0226 - 86177
double room approximately USD30 (check with any larger travel agency)
They are administered by a German company and offer excellent service,
especially for travelers with children.
Bucanero
in Baconao
phone 0226 - 54596 / fax 86070 (might be hard to reach)
double room all inclusive USD120
Large, one- or two-story riverstone houses; the facilities include a private
beach and a night club.
Villa la Gran Piedra
in Baconao, on the road to the Gran Piedras summit
phone 0226 - 51154
double room without breakfast from USD 60
The hotel is located at 1,100 meters above sea level and probably Cuba's
highest hotel.
Villa El Saltón
in the Sierra Maestra, turn left on the road to Palma Soriano
rooms can be reserved via the travel agency Fantastico, phone 0226 - 42202
/ fax 86209
double rooms at about USD 40 (prices are negotiable)
Enchanting little mountain resort with a very good restaurant. A waterfall
has carved three natural swimming basins out of the rocks.
Casa Grande
in Santiago de Cuba city, left of the cathedral near Parque Céspedes
phone 0226 - 86600 / fax 86035
double room without breakfast USD 88
The first-floor cafeteria offers a view of the vivacious square.
Villa San Juan
in Santiago de Cuba city, located a little outside the city center on
the Carretera Siboney at km 1.5 (easy to find)
phone 0226 - 42490 / fax 86817
double room without breakfast USD 54
The hotel is a white, rectangualar building on a hilltop and has many
Cuban guests.
Restaurants
Don Antonio
in Santiago de Cuba city, Plaza de Dolores
Located in an elegant colonial-style building, the restaurant offers very
good cuisine, but the the service is a bit slow.
Kiam Sand
in Santigo de Cuba city, on the route to El Morro castel
phone 0226 - 91889
open everyday from 12 am on
It is recommended that you reserve a table at this nice place to enjoy
creole and Chinese food.
Villa Lurdita
(also known as Casa de Papito), in Santiago de Cuba city on the Cayo Granma
island, on the route to El Morro castle
A small ferry goes out to the island from Punta Gorda. The private restaurant
on the former slave island is particularly famous for its fish dishes.
Dona Yulla (formerly called La casa del queso)
In the city of Santiago de Cuba, Calle Heredia/Peña Félix
near Plaza Céspedes.
It mainly offers creole foods: red kidney beans, green bananas used for
cooking, pork, and whatever is currently available.
Nightlife
Casa de la Trova
in Santiago de Cuba city, 208, Calle Heredia
open on weekends from 8:30 pm till midnight
The music consists of jam sessions with guest musicians, but aficionados
from the audience are also invited to join in if they like.
Café de Ajedréz (chess café)
in Santiago de Cuba city, an easily overlooked little building between
the Cuban National Bank and the cathedral on Plaza Céspedes
open everyday except Mondays
admission is USD 1.00.
At about 11 pm, they put on a high-class Afro-Cuban show.
Claqueta Bar
in Santiago de Cuba city, a few steps from the chess café, right
next door to the Rialto cinema admission is USD 2.00.
Offers live salsa all night through.
La Conga San Agustín
in Santiago de Cuba city, in a shack in 547, Calle Colocha
from 4 pm on
The Conga San Augustín is where a traditional Afrohaitian band
holds its practice sessions. Ask for Lorenzo Guerra.
Casa del Caribe
in Santiago de Cuba city, Av. Manduley, corner to Calle 13
The place offers expositions, Afrocuban ceremonies and live music. The
Centro Cultural Africano Fernando Ortiz in 106, Av. Mandaley, is a similar
organization, open daily from 9 am to 5 pm. On weekends, the center
offers shows.
History
