The Internet Travel Guide "Getting to Know Cuba"

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Bitter Sugar

Sugarcane is the most important plant on Cuba. It grows on every second square meter of farmland. Sugar was the most important foreign exchange earner on the tropical island for decades. The production of sugar, however, has more than halved since 1989. In the year 1999, the yield decreased to 3.6 million tons, which was the lowest level in 30 years. The fall in output represents a major problem for Cuba's economy.

Truck during sugar cane harvest

Every year in November, when the harvest begins, the rural population is called together to the despedida de los macheteros (farewell to the machete wielders). In every village, under the respective monument of the revolution, the villagers celebrate what they hope will be the zafra del centario (harvest of the century), which is so important for Cuba. Party representatives, families and fellow citizens say a ceremonial farewell to the "heroes of the nation" - 44,000 men from all over Cuba. Those who do the backbreaking work on the plantations, have a good deal of solidarity and national pride. The responsibility for the prosperity weighs on the macheteros` shoulders.

Buses bring the workers to the plantations, where they labor side by side between the closely planted, sharp edged sugar cane. This is horrific work, because the men cut sugar cane in scorching heat, twelve to thirteen hours a day, seven days a week.
In former times, slaves were mercilessly exploited in the fields and in the sugar mills. The plantation owners, merchants and ship owners, however, made tremendous profits, as in Europe, everyone wanted the white gold. Coffee, the bitter drink, came into fashion among the aristocracy and the bourgeoisie in the 18th century, and the Caribbean crystals came just in time to sweeten it.


In the lower part of the thick stem the sugar content is at its highest. The men, equipped with rubber boots, thick gloves, and enormous straw hats, slice off the sugar cane just above the ground. Afterwards, the worthless leaves are discarded. The work looks easy, but accidents happen even to professional and experienced workers. When the stems are struck, the glutinous syrup sprays out and the heat of the sun transforms it into burning caramel on the skin. When the sugar cane is cut, it has to be brought to the factory immediately. Otherwise, the valuable sap will evaporate. The macheteros carry the stems on their backs to the trucks. Machines are rarely used, because the necessary gas and replacement parts are lacking. As a result, the machines become rusty behind closed manufacturing shop doors.

Cuba is under pressure. Responsible for its current situation are cyclones, tropical storms that can destroy a whole harvest, the decreasing world market price for sugar, and the competitive sugar beet. Furthermore, it becomes increasingly more difficult to find enough workers for the zafra, although macheteros are the best paid workers in Cuba. Besides high wages, they receive payment in kind, such as nutritious food, and have good living conditions. On the negative side, their work is paid for with worthless Pesos. Dollars would better compensate them for the strains of their work on the sugar cane plantations.